This new Portuguese-themed place has an impressive pedigree, but the meal they served was bizarre, and it’s way too expensive
A few weeks ago my Guardian colleague Grace Dent wondered whether the pantomime of a lousy restaurant experience she’d had while reviewing in Berkshire was some kind of hidden camera gag set up by me. There were times during my meal at Canto in Manchester when I wondered whether she’d set the whole thing up as some kind of grudge match. Then again, I suspect even she couldn’t be faffed to stage something this tiresome.
In a well-run restaurant you should be able to look up from your table and work out exactly who is in charge
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